For many people with hypermobility in their hands, ring splints* can be incredibly helpful. As an artist, it made more sense for me to create my own than to buy them. It makes a fun challenge and can save time and money while giving choices to customize them to my fingers and style! After I saw other artists making their own, I played with a few variations to settle on what worked best for me. I started making mine with beads and copper wire and have experimented with a couple other metals and variations.
First, the materials I use:
Ring mandrel (alternatively, a dowel or other ring-sized round object to wrap wire around)
Round wire (copper is most affordable and easier to bend with unstable fingers)
Pliers (cutter, needle nose, and round nose)
(optional) sandpaper or beads
Here's my steps:
First, I wrap a bead for the top end. This is decorative, but it also prevents the sharp end from poking the skin or catching on anything during wear.
Next, I wrap two loops at the ring size for the end of my finger. Just once may do for some joints, but I prefer twice for extra support on my more hypermobile joints.
Next, I wrap the wire twice around the wider, bottom ring size. There will naturally be a wire line across the back side, and this is the part that supports the joint.
Next, I cut the wire with a little excess and wrap it around another bead. This step is optional, but keeps the wire's end from poking out.
Finally, I remove the wrap. I fold the bead on the smaller side backwards so that the wire adornment does not rub on the nail bed. At this stage, I also bend the loops into more of a "V" shape and make slight adjustments so that it fits snugly onto my finger. Once it feels comfortable and does not let my finger hyperextend, I know it's ready for everyday use!
Variations and notes on materials:
Amount of wire: It takes me about 11 inches of wire for one of these rings, so cutting about 12-14 depending on finger size and style makes sense. I will otherwise typically just leave it on the spool while I adjust it into my ring sizes and just cut it at the end.
Metal choice: Copper is a great starting wire for these rings. I use 18g round wire because copper it is more affordable and easier to bend, though 16g would work just as well. I have also used sterling silver, which does not tarnish so easily or turn green and is less likely to have common metal allergy reactions. Wire must be round, not half round, because half round and other shapes with edges can dig into skin uncomfortably. Titanium is an excellent option, but with hand pain it is much more challenging to work with unless it is pre-softened because it is a harder metal. Harder metals hold their shape better, but will be harder to bend. In order, the picture below this section shows how I did titanium, silver, and copper rings.
Amount of loops: With softer metals like copper or a dead soft silver, I do 2-3 loops, cross over, then do 2-3 loops again as pictured in examples. Depending on how it feels as I initially adjust it, with some softer wire I will add another cross back down to the initial loops so it forms an X shape instead of just a slash. With a harder metal like titanium, I can get away with just one loop, cross up, and do another single loop because it holds its shape much better.
Shaping the final ring: I fiddle around with all my rings to get just the right angle to fit my hand and customize it. The most important notes are that it crosses evenly on the underside of the joint to prevent it from hyperextending and that the smaller loops do not rest on or too close to the cuticle because it is thinner skin and can be irritated or damaged by thin wire rubbing against it for long periods.
Finish: I chose to wrap the ends around beads in this example, but a great alternative is to just file the edges of the wire so there's no sharp ends to catch on anything or scratch skin. When I'm feeling fancy, I'll solder things together, but I find just filing the ends or throwing on a bead is just as effective for a fast finish.
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